Sep 22, 2015

Iceland Survival, pt3 - Akureyri and North.

Akureyri main street.

If I were to pick one city to visit in Iceland, it would be Akureyri.
It's a small town, quiet, with great food, art and nicest people you'd meet. 


Hotel Kea is right on main, and there is parking on side streets. Rooms are simple, but bar and common area on ground level is posh and well-designed, with dark leather, earthy greens and beige tones.



There is an art museum, sculptures & art on the street, fountains and just small town beauty.


Life is slow here, so most places don't stay open all night - plan to eat and drink in normal/non-NY hours.

Martini
Goya Tapas Bar caught my eye. Service is a bit awkward, but food and drinks were good!

Goya Tapas Bar menu cover
It good to be in civilization for a little while, before I get back on the road...
My 4x4 crying for the open road already.

Roads of Iceland.
Driving through the North next morning - I am skipping Northern Fjords, as much as it breaks my heart to do so. But alas, vacation time is limited, and I am promising myself to come back here anyways.
But - there are few stops to see on the way. Glaciers, mountains, snow and sunny pastures unravel their breathtaking views on me, and this drive is longest yet - and yet, not tiring at all. Simply beautiful.


First stop along the way - Hvítserkur, a 15 meters high basalt rock standing in the middle of the ocean.
There are no signs, no directions - just GPS coordinates scribbled down. As you drive down the field towards the location, you wonder if you in right place - you cannot see it from the road. The cliffs are tall, and it sits way on the bottom of 30-40 meters cliff.

Looking down from observation deck - see the path down? Right, me neither.
There is an observation deck on top, but that's way to far for me. I brave up and descend down, following crazy almost vertical path in rocks, mud and grass that people who came before me made... Am I scared? Heck yes. But it is just a short albeit insane descent.
Below, everything is so calm. Waves break on the shore, puffins & seagulls fly overhead, and that rock stands in all of it's glory. Weird stone elephant. I heard you can walk into it in low tide! But tide is high today, so shore will do.

Hvítserkur
Peaceful and weird...



Rain starting picking up again, and my stomach making noises telling me it's time to find something to eat.
So there is a sign along the road telling me it's a Seafood restaurant few miles away. Sounds awesome! So I am driving, and small sign with an arrow pointing in the direction of the place. It's unpaved road and an open gate... There are rooms available here too - but restaurant is in separate building.
You walk into the front door, and it is an open space, with long tables, simple maritime decor, very casual and down to earth. Husband and wife run it, and after you sit down, they bring you water and bread and chat for a bit. 
"What you have on menu today?" I ask. 
"Soup" she answers. 
"What kind of soup? Do you have any sandwiches?"
"Just fish soup. That's it"
Well, I will try just that! It is raining outside, and I have no desire to go out.
Let me tell you, that fish soup was best thing I ate in my life!

Fish Soup.

This is how magic happens: freshly caught fish, all local grown produce, made with love in someone's kitchen.
This is freaking amazing.

Rainy day window.
...West Coast Sunsets - coming up next...

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