Iceland Survival, pt1 - Vik.

Hello, Iceland! You are one tough cookie, love.

Arrival, Vik & vicinity.

IcelandAir flight to Reykjavik is only 5.5 hrs. Do you believe it? It almost like flying from New York to FL. Flight attire is cute, with comfy blankets and personalized pillows. Unfortunately there are few drawbacks that suck. One - this is only international air I ever been on that does not serve ANY free food, drinks, or even snacks on board. Everything you have to pay for. A bit bizarre. But once you get past initial shock, food is good!

IcelandAir blankie!

Also, most of USB chargers at the seats are broken, and sound does not work on some screens. 

Flight attendant response to pointing it out was "OK" - and she walked away. Meh. (In retrospect, I think I just got a "lemon" plane. Not all of them that bad)

Reykjavik airport is very efficient. Passport control takes seconds, no wait for luggage - it already unloading as you walking to the belt. And if you traveling light like me and have nothing to declare, you are just waking straight thru the doors and to the next adventure.

Blue Car Rental was best option I found here. 4WD (muchly needed for unpaved/gravel roads), automatic (yes, I am lazy American), opens early (have to get as much daylight as you can!), fully staffed location, and it is only 5 min walk from airport. You can see their sign from terminal. Very quickly car brought upfront, paperwork signed, and the road starts unrolling under the wheels of 4x4.

Main destination today is Vik, but there are few stops before that.

Reykjanes Cliffs

Reykjanes Cliffs is first one...

Lighthouse.

It's a weird drive on unpaved road through industrial area, with enormous cables swirling along the road, steam clouding up, and lighthouse in he epicentre of all this madness.

Very Kin-dza-dza. (old Russian movie reference)

Driving to the cliffs.

Note: weather been unfriendly most of this trip - which I expected traveling late fall. So I'm already battling wind, cold and drizzle walking to the cliffs. It's rough and black. Birds fly in and out like white moths. There are steps leading to the top, steep. 

Cliffs.

Hello, Iceland! You are one tough beautiful cookie, love...

Countryside.

Driving further towards Vik, I spot open field, sheep running around and weird houses built into the mountain. Gates seems to be open, so I have to do it, you know it. 

I mean, it ain't trespassing if there are no signs and no guys with Kalashnikov chasing you out, right?

Sheep!

I try to chase after sheep with camera in that manner, but they run away. I am convinced those sheep just hate their pictures taken.

It seems I created tourist attraction running after sheep - more cars start stopping next to mine.

Great photography and exploration point!

Random  fields.

As I walk around, black dog comes over and drops something at my feet. I look at him weirdly, and he nudges me toward it with his wet nose. So I look into the grass and pick up round black stone. Dog jumps in happiness and wiggles it tail. Little bugger is bored and wants to play! I throw the stone, he catches it and runs back. This is hilarious. We play for a while till I find next unsuspected tourist to take over stray dog ownership. (This happen before, dogs love to follow me around. Do I smell like bacon or somethin?)

Mountains... So green.

Iceland mountains are different. Old. No trees here at all. Green, almost look like they covered with fuzzy moss, looking from afar... Straight edges of the cliffs. Very, very old and very proud.

Skogafoss.

Next stop: Skogafoss Falls. It is rather touristy, but it's a good break, since they have restrooms and cafe. Parking lot is huge, and it's a short walk to base of the falls along the shallow river. Mountains are green, old and picturesque. There is a hike to the top of the falls, but I opt for the cliff in the middle. It is scary beautiful. Goddess smiles at me, and sun comes out for a little bit, and with the sun, rainbow stretches over the waterfall basin. How perfect.

I love the serenity of this.

As you leave waterfalls area, turn left on rt.1 and watch for small unmarked gate on right hand side. It's very close. This is gravel road leading to old navy plane crash site. Note that regular cars are not permitted on this road, 4x4 only, if you have "normal" car - you up for a hike, it's about 1hr one way. Good luck.

LOST.

Once again, 4WD rock. It's absolutely flat black gravel plateau, and "road" marked with yellow road markers. Keep in direction of the sea till you see airplane. 

It is small, but surreal cool.

I pick up 4 Hitchhikers to drive back to main road - two from Michigan and two from Brasil. I ask them about towels, but get blank stares, obviously. This is fun.

Remains.

Last detour before Vik, Myrdalsjokull Glacier
. 

There is a cafe - coffee and knish will do for lunch, I am starving.

Myrdalsjokull Glacier.

Of course, I cannot be normal - and while everybody hiking the upper (civilized) road to see glacier from the top, I take hike along the black sand beach to get up close and personal with lake and glacier. Black ice. Really ashy black.

Black ice is surreal.

Once again, I am on the moon. I think. 

Glacier Lake.

It is so close, I can touch it. I can see water drops melting from the glacier, creating round circles in black water.

Myrdalsjokull Glacier.

Off to Vik. Hotel Katla is just past the main town center - it's a nice and spacious mountain range. Free parking, free wifi (good and strong, each guesthouse has it's own wifi, I think).

Black Sand Beach.

Drop the luggage and run for quick drive to Black Sand Beach - with spectacular views of the stone massive. 

Stone Cliffs of Vik.

Black gravel and black sand, caves, cliffs, and rough seas.

Black Sand Beach at high tide.

  
Best sunset spot as I read, but I am tired, clouds hanging too low, high tide coming in, so I dash to find dinner.

Almost sunset.

Decided on Berg - located in more modern IcelandAir hotel.

Berg.

 
3 course special menu looks good! The house wine is nicely chilled, amuse bouche is delightful - and presentation is wonderful on the silver spoon. 
 

Amuse bouche.

Freshly baked bread with beets and walnut spread is so good, I had to ask for more. (I noticed northern countries have best baked breads).

Bread!

Soup was ok - light and creamy, but not a wow factor. Main course, however, was spectacular. Arctic char, with crispy seared skin, with mashed potatoes, asparagus and sauce. 

Cup of good coffee to accompany flan that was included in my meal - this is how you unwind after long day.

Berg.

Decor is clean and modern, and service is quick and friendly. Hostess spoke to each table in different language, btw - color me impressed. Her English was impeccable, too.

Iceland landscapes.

I wake up in the middle of the night and wander to the parking lot to look at the sky, hoping to catch Northern lights. I do a lot of this midnight walks on this trip. I must. I have to see them. 

It's chilly, and wind picking up. Cloudy. Gonna be rough day tomorrow.

Cliffs of Vik.

...Just as I thought, next morning -  waking up to storm in full effect. Winds are brutal - hold into those car doors! It also pouring rain. Almost like going for the swim, but with your clothes on.

Church on top of the hill, Vik.

Nevermind the storm, I want to make it on top on the hill in Vik to see the beautiful red roof church. There are also panoramic views of the whole town, mountains and the ocean from here. Ocean is grey and waves hitting the rocks in magnificent display below. 

I cannot hear the roar of the ocean, but I know it is battling the shore like a wild animal.

My hair all soaked wet, and rain washing my face in a small waterfall. I taste Iceland rain on my lips. It's cold and clean like melted mountain ice.

Roads Untraveled.

...Time to leave Vik and continue on circle around Iceland... 

Sights Unseen.

Useful tips:
- Get 4WD, it's a must here.

- GPS actually tells you when you not allowed on the roads if you don't have 4x4, and those roads marked on the maps. Lots of them!
- GPS coordinates for all places you wish to visit are very helpful. If you can rent a tracker for GSP coordinates it would be a necessity on hikes.
- Bread & herring are must eats. Trust me, you never find anything like this back in US.
- Remember EVERYTHING. This is beautiful.

Photo opps.