Iceland Survival pt4 - West.

Peaceful.

This is the last and most relaxing part of the trip. There is something about West, lakes & fjords - it's quiet and laid back.

Brilliant skies.

It's all embedded in my memories as a story of Sun & Skies. Sun playing with clouds as I drive slowly into mellow shores of the West, streaming silver rays down and exploding into shimmering bells & sparkles as it touches the waters of countless lakes.

Lakeside.

 All washed clean by recent rains and shiny as polished silver set, Iceland finally showed it smiling face - shy but incredibly beautiful and brilliantly lit in this cold sunshine.

Rainbow from hotel window.

Once I arrived to hotel, I jumped right into shower - but as I came out and stepped to the tall, ceiling-high window in my room, I stopped on my tracks, water still dripping from my wet hair. I was enchanted and held hostage by the view of the rainbow spanning across the field, so clear and sharp.

Common area in Hotel Vogur

It is quiet here. Hotel Vogur is newly renovated, it is off-season, so there are no other guests. It is weird but so pleasant to be alone here.

Manager recommends to see old church, not far, but out of the way - so I set of for evening drive.

Road to church is not-existent, as many here, narrow and windy, rocks, grass & puddles. It is getting dark too. But rewards for this: most amazing views and reflections.

Reflections.

Church is old, and so charming. There is a tiny cemetery on the back, and it's all eerie and quiet... 

Red-door church.

Sun is setting, and I really don't want to get stuck in marshlands at night, so I make my way back - with stops, of course. I cannot resist walking across the field and follow noisy clean stream.

Open fields around property and lake just across the way makes perfect setting for sky photography, sunsets, and, at night, for hunting Northern lights, of course.

Sunset at Hotel Vogur.

I did not sleep that night. I keep running to the window and looking at the sky. Finally, I just went outside, set tripod and waited in the middle of open field. Stars are incredible here. And so are the Northern lights!

Lights playing in the sky!

Phew, what a night! As fast as they came, they disappear. Only memory remained... Forever and ever...

In the morning, it's one last drive - to Rekjavik. But I hate driving in straight lines, you know that? So, detour is in order!

Going through Þingvellir National Park, (Thingvellir), and it's mostly F-roads, which means no pavement, no markers, 4x4 only.

GPS keeps spewing warning to turn around if you don't have 4WD.

Oh, hell no, no turning around! It is weird to drive through plateau, black as night sky, in rain (again), with no visible markers of the road. Glacier to the left, mountains to the right - it is simply undescribable.

That's the road, yo!

Views are incredible, but rains stopping me from taking more pictures.

Glaciers & Mountains.

But rain stops by the time I make it to Rekjavik. It's clear and pretty nice to walk around town. It's a charming town, and restaurants here are simply amazing - but if you want to see attractions, everything within 2 hrs drive of the city is way too touristy and crowded - most definitely drive further to the see the beauty of this country.

Rekjavik old town.

But I digress - Rekjavik worth a short stay.

Just a walk around old town... It's great to relax in civilization.

At Kjallarinn.

Must stop & eat at Kjallarinn - food is incredible and drinks are amazing. So as decor and atmosphere!

Rekjavik.

 This was my favorite spot in Rekjavik - just sitting there by the lake...

Goodbye, Iceland, my love.

You are so beautiful. So tough. So genuine. Till I come back, remember me. I will always remember you.

Iceland Survival, pt3 - Akureyri and North.

Akureyri main street.

If I were to pick one city to visit in Iceland, it would be Akureyri.
It's a small town, quiet, with great food, art and nicest people you'd meet. 

Hotel Kea is right on main, and there is parking on side streets. Rooms are simple, but bar and common area on ground level is posh and well-designed, with dark leather, earthy greens and beige tones.

There is an art museum, sculptures & art on the street, fountains and just small town beauty.

Life is slow here, so most places don't stay open all night - plan to eat and drink in normal/non-NY hours.

Martini

Goya Tapas Bar caught my eye. Service is a bit awkward, but food and drinks were good!

Goya Tapas Bar menu cover

It good to be in civilization for a little while, before I get back on the road...
My 4x4 crying for the open road already.

Roads of Iceland.

Driving through the North next morning - I am skipping Northern Fjords, as much as it breaks my heart to do so. But alas, vacation time is limited, and I am promising myself to come back here anyways.
But - there are few stops to see on the way. Glaciers, mountains, snow and sunny pastures unravel their breathtaking views on me, and this drive is longest yet - and yet, not tiring at all. Simply beautiful.

First stop along the way - Hvítserkur, a 15 meters high basalt rock standing in the middle of the ocean.
There are no signs, no directions - just GPS coordinates scribbled down. As you drive down the field towards the location, you wonder if you in right place - you cannot see it from the road. The cliffs are tall, and it sits way on the bottom of 30-40 meters cliff.

Looking down from observation deck - see the path down? Right, me neither.

There is an observation deck on top, but that's way to far for me. I brave up and descend down, following crazy almost vertical path in rocks, mud and grass that people who came before me made... Am I scared? Heck yes. But it is just a short albeit insane descent.
Below, everything is so calm. Waves break on the shore, puffins & seagulls fly overhead, and that rock stands in all of it's glory. Weird stone elephant. I heard you can walk into it in low tide! But tide is high today, so shore will do.

Hvítserkur

Peaceful and weird...

Rain starting picking up again, and my stomach making noises telling me it's time to find something to eat.
So there is a sign along the road telling me it's a Seafood restaurant few miles away. Sounds awesome! So I am driving, and small sign with an arrow pointing in the direction of the place. It's unpaved road and an open gate... There are rooms available here too - but restaurant is in separate building.
You walk into the front door, and it is an open space, with long tables, simple maritime decor, very casual and down to earth. Husband and wife run it, and after you sit down, they bring you water and bread and chat for a bit. 
"What you have on menu today?" I ask. 
"Soup" she answers. 
"What kind of soup? Do you have any sandwiches?"
"Just fish soup. That's it"
Well, I will try just that! It is raining outside, and I have no desire to go out.
Let me tell you, that fish soup was best thing I ate in my life!

Fish Soup.

This is how magic happens: freshly caught fish, all local grown produce, made with love in someone's kitchen.
This is freaking amazing.

Rainy day window.

...West Coast Sunsets - coming up next...

Iceland Survival, pt2 - East.

Bridge ruins near Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon.

The storm is spinning around the coast like a merry-go-around, refusing to leave.
One great thing about it - enormous amounts of water it's dumping on the ground turns every cliff into waterfall. There hundreds of them along the road now, some are quite beautiful, and some are quite dangerous, spewing rocks and mud into highway. 

Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon.

There are two glaciers on the way, but even short walk proven to be challenging - water pouring so hard I find it difficult to keep my eyes open, and even my rain gear cannot handle this amount of water - it is not swimsuit after all! I am wet to the bones, give up and get back to the car.

There is nothing else to do but drive to Breiddalsvik & relax at hotel...

Hótel Bláfell.

Hótel Bláfell is simple, but so, so charming. High wooden ceilings and beams, real fireplace in common room.... And oh, yesssssss, best ever herring and bread for breakfast!
But - I get ahead of myself. Storm died down by morning, and I woke up to blues on the lake...

Morning at the lake.

Everything is quiet, bathing in this blue haze, fresh and washed up, and so peaceful.
There is a small laguna, and ships - old and new.

Old ship.

Town just waking up. Few people already loading something on the docks. They start early here.

Peace after the storm.

I walk around some more, till I see the sign telling me to go away - I take it as my cue to go back to hotel.

But as I walk to the hotel parking lot, I stop & burst out laughting - and now my mood matching the weather, brighter and sunnier. Just look at this:

Twins.

On this sunny note, I say good bye to Breiddalsvik and continue my journey... I follow the sun that chasing clouds away. Valley opens up to the views of beautiful red-roof church - edges & lines are sharp in morning light, and clouds backdrop makes it even more dramatic...

This valley is most beautiful I've seen so far, and even my schedule not planned for this, I spent crazy amount of time stopping on every turn. I just cannot, cannot pass it.

I drive off and stop again. And again. And again. I think I will never leave this place. Those mountaintops came from fairy tale, with little peaks, detailing and ornate openings.
Rivers & roads weaving in the valley, and clouds playing catch with mountains...

I am expecting to see fairy people next. What they called? Oh, yes, Huldufólk. (no, I am not cursing).

Do you think they wash clothes in the stream, bathe in the waterfall and eat herring in the morning?

One thing I absolutely love about Iceland: you can drive for hours and don't see a single soul or house. Just untouched nature. It's insane in this day and age, and deeply poetic.
Only living creatures around are sheep. They wild, funny, and plentiful. I keep chasing after them, on foot or in car. Buggers are fast! All I want is a good picture!

Sheep!!

...Akureyri is next stop...

Iceland Survival, pt1 - Vik.

Hello, Iceland! You are one tough cookie, love.

Arrival, Vik & vicinity.

IcelandAir flight to Reykjavik is only 5.5 hrs. Do you believe it? It almost like flying from New York to FL. Flight attire is cute, with comfy blankets and personalized pillows. Unfortunately there are few drawbacks that suck. One - this is only international air I ever been on that does not serve ANY free food, drinks, or even snacks on board. Everything you have to pay for. A bit bizarre. But once you get past initial shock, food is good!

IcelandAir blankie!

Also, most of USB chargers at the seats are broken, and sound does not work on some screens. 

Flight attendant response to pointing it out was "OK" - and she walked away. Meh. (In retrospect, I think I just got a "lemon" plane. Not all of them that bad)

Reykjavik airport is very efficient. Passport control takes seconds, no wait for luggage - it already unloading as you walking to the belt. And if you traveling light like me and have nothing to declare, you are just waking straight thru the doors and to the next adventure.

Blue Car Rental was best option I found here. 4WD (muchly needed for unpaved/gravel roads), automatic (yes, I am lazy American), opens early (have to get as much daylight as you can!), fully staffed location, and it is only 5 min walk from airport. You can see their sign from terminal. Very quickly car brought upfront, paperwork signed, and the road starts unrolling under the wheels of 4x4.

Main destination today is Vik, but there are few stops before that.

Reykjanes Cliffs

Reykjanes Cliffs is first one...

Lighthouse.

It's a weird drive on unpaved road through industrial area, with enormous cables swirling along the road, steam clouding up, and lighthouse in he epicentre of all this madness.

Very Kin-dza-dza. (old Russian movie reference)

Driving to the cliffs.

Note: weather been unfriendly most of this trip - which I expected traveling late fall. So I'm already battling wind, cold and drizzle walking to the cliffs. It's rough and black. Birds fly in and out like white moths. There are steps leading to the top, steep. 

Cliffs.

Hello, Iceland! You are one tough beautiful cookie, love...

Countryside.

Driving further towards Vik, I spot open field, sheep running around and weird houses built into the mountain. Gates seems to be open, so I have to do it, you know it. 

I mean, it ain't trespassing if there are no signs and no guys with Kalashnikov chasing you out, right?

Sheep!

I try to chase after sheep with camera in that manner, but they run away. I am convinced those sheep just hate their pictures taken.

It seems I created tourist attraction running after sheep - more cars start stopping next to mine.

Great photography and exploration point!

Random  fields.

As I walk around, black dog comes over and drops something at my feet. I look at him weirdly, and he nudges me toward it with his wet nose. So I look into the grass and pick up round black stone. Dog jumps in happiness and wiggles it tail. Little bugger is bored and wants to play! I throw the stone, he catches it and runs back. This is hilarious. We play for a while till I find next unsuspected tourist to take over stray dog ownership. (This happen before, dogs love to follow me around. Do I smell like bacon or somethin?)

Mountains... So green.

Iceland mountains are different. Old. No trees here at all. Green, almost look like they covered with fuzzy moss, looking from afar... Straight edges of the cliffs. Very, very old and very proud.

Skogafoss.

Next stop: Skogafoss Falls. It is rather touristy, but it's a good break, since they have restrooms and cafe. Parking lot is huge, and it's a short walk to base of the falls along the shallow river. Mountains are green, old and picturesque. There is a hike to the top of the falls, but I opt for the cliff in the middle. It is scary beautiful. Goddess smiles at me, and sun comes out for a little bit, and with the sun, rainbow stretches over the waterfall basin. How perfect.

I love the serenity of this.

As you leave waterfalls area, turn left on rt.1 and watch for small unmarked gate on right hand side. It's very close. This is gravel road leading to old navy plane crash site. Note that regular cars are not permitted on this road, 4x4 only, if you have "normal" car - you up for a hike, it's about 1hr one way. Good luck.

LOST.

Once again, 4WD rock. It's absolutely flat black gravel plateau, and "road" marked with yellow road markers. Keep in direction of the sea till you see airplane. 

It is small, but surreal cool.

I pick up 4 Hitchhikers to drive back to main road - two from Michigan and two from Brasil. I ask them about towels, but get blank stares, obviously. This is fun.

Remains.

Last detour before Vik, Myrdalsjokull Glacier
. 

There is a cafe - coffee and knish will do for lunch, I am starving.

Myrdalsjokull Glacier.

Of course, I cannot be normal - and while everybody hiking the upper (civilized) road to see glacier from the top, I take hike along the black sand beach to get up close and personal with lake and glacier. Black ice. Really ashy black.

Black ice is surreal.

Once again, I am on the moon. I think. 

Glacier Lake.

It is so close, I can touch it. I can see water drops melting from the glacier, creating round circles in black water.

Myrdalsjokull Glacier.

Off to Vik. Hotel Katla is just past the main town center - it's a nice and spacious mountain range. Free parking, free wifi (good and strong, each guesthouse has it's own wifi, I think).

Black Sand Beach.

Drop the luggage and run for quick drive to Black Sand Beach - with spectacular views of the stone massive. 

Stone Cliffs of Vik.

Black gravel and black sand, caves, cliffs, and rough seas.

Black Sand Beach at high tide.

  
Best sunset spot as I read, but I am tired, clouds hanging too low, high tide coming in, so I dash to find dinner.

Almost sunset.

Decided on Berg - located in more modern IcelandAir hotel.

Berg.

 
3 course special menu looks good! The house wine is nicely chilled, amuse bouche is delightful - and presentation is wonderful on the silver spoon. 
 

Amuse bouche.

Freshly baked bread with beets and walnut spread is so good, I had to ask for more. (I noticed northern countries have best baked breads).

Bread!

Soup was ok - light and creamy, but not a wow factor. Main course, however, was spectacular. Arctic char, with crispy seared skin, with mashed potatoes, asparagus and sauce. 

Cup of good coffee to accompany flan that was included in my meal - this is how you unwind after long day.

Berg.

Decor is clean and modern, and service is quick and friendly. Hostess spoke to each table in different language, btw - color me impressed. Her English was impeccable, too.

Iceland landscapes.

I wake up in the middle of the night and wander to the parking lot to look at the sky, hoping to catch Northern lights. I do a lot of this midnight walks on this trip. I must. I have to see them. 

It's chilly, and wind picking up. Cloudy. Gonna be rough day tomorrow.

Cliffs of Vik.

...Just as I thought, next morning -  waking up to storm in full effect. Winds are brutal - hold into those car doors! It also pouring rain. Almost like going for the swim, but with your clothes on.

Church on top of the hill, Vik.

Nevermind the storm, I want to make it on top on the hill in Vik to see the beautiful red roof church. There are also panoramic views of the whole town, mountains and the ocean from here. Ocean is grey and waves hitting the rocks in magnificent display below. 

I cannot hear the roar of the ocean, but I know it is battling the shore like a wild animal.

My hair all soaked wet, and rain washing my face in a small waterfall. I taste Iceland rain on my lips. It's cold and clean like melted mountain ice.

Roads Untraveled.

...Time to leave Vik and continue on circle around Iceland... 

Sights Unseen.

Useful tips:
- Get 4WD, it's a must here.

- GPS actually tells you when you not allowed on the roads if you don't have 4x4, and those roads marked on the maps. Lots of them!
- GPS coordinates for all places you wish to visit are very helpful. If you can rent a tracker for GSP coordinates it would be a necessity on hikes.
- Bread & herring are must eats. Trust me, you never find anything like this back in US.
- Remember EVERYTHING. This is beautiful.

Photo opps.