Mozaics of Dead Horse Bay.

Mosaics in the Sand.

I get excited over trips like this, we been talking about it for a while. Whole beach filled with old treasures? Yes, please!
Short ride away, we parked at Floyd Bennett Air Field, and walked across the highway.
Along the trees there is a sign with an arrow that reads "Park Entrance". 
Is there sign pointing to giant mushroom & caterpillar here somewhere? I feel like there is...
We follow sandy road thru the trees, bushes & tall whipping grasses - they wave and whisper in the wind - and soon, view of the bay opens up... Tide is low, just as my travel companion predicted, and we can walk rather far into the bay.

Sea Treasures.

It is filed with all kinds of odd sea treasures - mostly bottles, big or small, broken or whole, some in clear view, some covered in seaweed.

There are some old gorgeous perfume bottles to be found here - I am a little jealous I did not have good eye to find them. Looking around is pretty cool. 

Old Coke & Pepsi Bottles, Clorox glass jars, endless caps, some shoe soles, ceramics, parts of boats and even old iron...

Old Iron.

There is also art scattered throughout the bay, on boxes, trees and boats. It is kinda cool to find graffiti around the beach.

Graffiti on the box.

I get distracted easily by scenery around us, and keep turning around in circles. Oh, look, smiley face!

Happy Ball!

Low tide leaves narrow paths of white clean sand pointing to New York City. Surprisingly, it is super-clean and soft to walk in. Waves wash over it left and right, and you feel like you standing at the end of the world...

Standing at the end of the world.

At the end of the beach, we find old boat and a bench to seat on - and a shortcut to the road. 

Get Da Fuck Outta Brooklyn Boat!

Yep, we are in Brooklyn, New York, for sure!
Here is the proof.

New York, New York!

With all treasures stored safely in my companion's bag, we make our way back to the Floyd Bennett Air Field. Now, this is pretty awesome place on it's own. I feel that it deserve whole separate story - and I promise to come back here soon - but let me just tell you, driving a jeep on open runways, wide and long and straight, is pretty amazing. So as watching model planes take off and land. So. Much. Fun.

Now, get the sand out of your shoes (I swear it gets everywhere!) and drive to Rockaways.

Hidden behind the gas station, there is local treasure called Wharf Bar & Grill. Be warned, service as slow as turtle on lazy sunny day, but sitting on open air terrace, with breeze touching your face, amazing view of bridges, Brooklyn and New York skyline - you can just relax and take it easy. We are not in a hurry. Well, as long as they bring us drinks, of course! 

Fresh clams, HUGE lobster roll (we had to split it in half, and fish tacos (whey more like wraps, actually, and pretty convenient to eat). It was a lot of food. Oh, and sweet potato fries won the day - so good!

I loved sitting there and watching boats go by, sun getting lower on a horizon, and just enjoying great company. 
...Just another fun weekend in New York...
Till next time!

One Sunday Morning.

New York, New York! View from Governors Island

Sometimes, you don't have to travel far to find something special. Sometimes, you just need to open your eyes and see what right in front of your nose.

"May be you should write about New York, too", he said...

She picked hem of her long dusty rose dress into her fist as they walked up the steps and into painted tree house.

"I'll think about it"

"I still have so much to write about all other past travels, but New York is... New York!"

Painted Tree House.

So here they are - little vignettes of City That Never Sleeps.

Thank you, muse!

Cloudscapesque view of Statue of Liberty & boats.

...Summers are hot in New York. 

But by the water, there is a refreshing breeze. 
I can smell the water - not in a bad way! as fresh, clean scent of the sea -  as we walk to the harbor to catch a ferry to Governors Island.

Not many people know this - but there is Brooklyn Ferry that goes to Governors island in addition to Manhattan one. It leaves from pier 6 at Brooklyn Waterfront (just a bit to the left from Joralemon St), and it is free if you take it before noon or if you have id NYC. W00t!

(Once again, my partner in crime surprises me with finding different ways around the city!)

View of the city from the park.

There are no cars on Governors Island (other than occasional car show).
But there are many pathways to wander around, and bike rental place, as well as city bikes.

It's an oasis of quiet in the middle of NY harbor.
Wait!

There are also hammocks, and ice cream! Can you ask for anything more on hot summer day in the city??

...And beautiful views of NYC skyline with amazing backdrop of cloudscapes. 
(I can never get enough of ever-changing clouds. They are fascinating.)

Island's landscape is still work in progress - like a canvas with paint strokes of trees and pathways slowly appearing. Hill getting build. Trees keep growing. Art changing and getting built in front of your eyes.

Artist building a spaceship sculpture out of old car bumpers.

There are sooooo many art installations to see - from spaceship made from old car bumpers to the tipi tent with lenses and canvas creating camera obscura landscapes effects in darkness inside, or colorful umbrellas and tripods, growing together like a weird trees out of bike & car tires. And painted tree house - of course!

Umbrellas, tripods and tires.

If you get hungry or thirsty - no worries, there is almost a million food trucks parked around - there is something for every taste.

Wait, this ain't food truck! VW Traffic Jam 2015.

Wait, this ain't food truck! It's an old VW bus! And another one...and another one!
This is what we can here for this particular day - NYC VW Traffic Jam! They have it on the island every year. How the heck they get all the cars here? This is cool beans.

Volkswagen Blues.

"My Volks-Volkswagen blues 

Ready to carry me away 

A long way to reach the moon"

-Gilberto Gil

VW Traffic Jam 2015

Have you seen an old beetle in color of morning sky? It's here somewhere... Just around the corner. We'll find it, one day...

VW Traffic Jam 2015.

Old cars lined up the field, ordered by year and by models. Some rusty, some shiny, some classy, some whimsical.

Summer reflections. Can you see me?

I love the detailing in each and every one. There are stories behind each car, I bet -  and you can see how much pride owners take in them. 

VW Traffic Jam 2015.

Mouse & Tails. VW Traffic Jam 2015.

After the show, we walk along the water edge. The Hills - Discovery & Outlook (which will stand whopping 82', imagine that for a NY second!) - still not open, but hopefully soon. Good reason to come back!

Driving Tools. This is the shot of the day.

Quotes of Behemoth. Etc. Inc.

"Not fooling around, not bothering nobody, just sitting here mending the Primus,' said the cat with a hostile frown, 'and, moreover, I consider it my duty to warn you that the cat is an ancient, inviolable animal.” 

"You're not Dostoevsky,' said the citizeness, who was getting muddled by Koroviev. 
'Well, who knows, who knows,' he replied.
'Dostoevsky's dead,' said the citizeness, but somehow not very confidently.
'I protest!' Behemoth exclaimed hotly. 'Dostoevsky is immortal!”

"Azazello begged her not to worry, assuring her that he had seen not only naked women but also women with their skin flayed clean off" 

"Is that vodka?' Margarita asked weakly.
The cat jumped up in his seat with indignation.
'I beg pardon, my queen,' he rasped, 'Would I ever allow myself to offer vodka to a lady? This is pure alcohol!"

"Manuscripts don't burn."
- Mikhail Bulgakov, Master and Margarita

Chile Diaries, pt4 - End of the World.

At the End of the World.

Driving back to Puerto Natales to fill up, car beeps to empty 16km from the town, so barely making it to gas station. Phew, talk about close calls! 

Another 250 km back to Punta Arenas. Now it is really late and I am too exhausted to do anything else. Driving thru town traffic without GPS and with one way streets is not easy.

Punta Arenas.

Staying in Dreams, brand new hotel and casino right on the water at the end of the street (it is one way boulevard that starts from the hotel, so I consider it a beginning of OHiggins blvd. even that house numbers say otherwise)

Dreams Punta Arenas is a beautiful modern hotel, I can only compare it to Aria in Vegas when it first opened. It is huge, with restaurant, casino, spa and Skybar.

Rooms are spacious, free wifi, TV, huge bathtub, separate rain shower with massage jets, and all amenities you can wish for.

Dreams hotel.

Restaurant on first floor is gorgeous, high ceilings, interesting light effects on the windows that visible at night time. And food is on level - abalone was interesting to try, trio of ceviches is out of this world, and mushroom and octopus risotto was very, very good. Of course, Chilean wine is outstanding, cannot go wrong with any of selections.

Tip of the day: with Sky Bar situated on 11th floor, rooms on 10th floor can get weird noises sometimes. Also, rooms overlooking Punta Arenas, while have great views, can get quite hot from afternoon sun.

View from Dreams.

Day 7.

Isla Magdalena.
Super excited!

Penguin tours on barge Melinka to Isla Magdalena leave at 8am.
There is a black submarine by the entrance to the marina, cannot miss it. Office opens at 7:30 to buy tickets, line moves quick, and we all board Melinka 15 min to 8. Boat it very spacious, a lot of seats, restrooms, and small snack stand. Ride is 2 hours, plus 1 hour on the island - total of 5 hours.

That's love!

There are 75,000 penguin couples on this island alone.
Right now (November-December) is the season for penguins to lay eggs, and survival rate here is 1.7 chicks per couple, we were told.
Walking along the path to lighthouse, up and close with penguins is pretty cool.

Walking to Lighthouse.

You cannot/should not touch them, or feed them, and you have to stop if they crossing the path - they constantly go from holes to the sea to bring fish for their family.
Respect the penguin!
There are couple grey fuzzy chicks hatched already, but most of females hiding in those nest holes with eggs. They come out from time to time to spend time with their mate. Male penguins make warning noses, too, super funny - sounds like a warrior song.

Warrior Song.

Magellanic Penguins do differ from other kinds, and sooooo stinking cute, walking around in those black and white tuxedos!

Battle of penguins.

There are also lots of seagulls and other birds live here too, it's a sanctuary for all.
(Watch for the poop! ...and whole island stinks of fish, just a fair warning.)

"Ford... you're turning into a penguin. Stop it." - Hitchhiker's

Ford turning into penguin.

Punta Arenas.

Punta Arenas.

This is port town, and it is as charming as port town can be.

From cruise ships to small boats, and naval base, it all here. Long and beautiful Costanera, with modern sculptures and concrete chairs to enjoy the sunrise, hugs the city from Strait of Magellan side.

At the docks.

This is also artists town, you see many sculptures and murals all around you. 

Murals.

Punta Arena's main square, Plaza Muñoz Gamero, filled with beautiful trees - from very tall and Nordic looking evergreens to yellow-blooming ones with amazing scent.

Square is framed with mansions and gorgeous buildings that remind me of Paris or St. Petersburg.

Punta Arenas.

In the very beginning of OHiggins, just a block from the water, there are many restaurants that offer pre-fixe menu for lunch. It is a steal at price, and food is fresh and delicious. Do it!

In the evening I am still not hungry, so it is time to check out Sky Bar on 11th floor of Dreams.
There is a reason why rt.9 is officially named Ruta del Fin del Mundo - Road to the End of the World. Punta Arenas considered southernmost in the world, and as you get to the coast, you see the end of it all.
Now, to see it all clearly, you have to get to Sky Bar.
Huge, airy, spacious, very modern, with open layout, it offers THE best views of the city and the ocean, with nothing beyond the horizon...

Sky Bar.

What goes well with epic views? Epic drinks, obviously.
Ginger Pisco Sour is must try! Perfect. Ask server for recommendations, they are very helpful.
They serve some food as well: fries, sandwiches and platters.
Good selection of music, from American mainstream to Latin artists (unknown to most of us, and pretty great), with video clips playing on multiple TV screens.
Bartender is uber nice, and speaks English very well - big plus for crazy tourists.

Day 8.

Flying back to Santiago.

Checkout from Dreams was a breeze!

Modern Santiago.

Taking taxi from aeropuerto this time. Look for official yellow and black cabs and do not believe those bozos who sticking "official" sign in your face, but do not have official car.

Staying in Le Rêve Boutique Hotel in Providencia. What a treat! Small, cozy, with French character I love, private courtyard and spacious rooms, modern shower and delightful lavender toiletries. Breakfast and late night snack included in price.

Courtyard.

Free wifi everywhere, concierge service, and stuff is accommodating to every request. From holding your bags after checkout, to getting you a taxi or special snack, or just cup of tea in ungodly time.

Courtyard is so charming and relaxing with small tables, vines and fountain, and when it's too cold or too hot outside, there is a sitting room with couches set alongside bookcases filled with French books.

One of the best hotels I ever stayed in.

Window to courtyard.

Providencia itself also wonderful, new, modern, lots of great architecture and sculptures.
I am actually amazed how developed Chilean architecture and arts are. That's a huge compliment coming from New Yorker.

La Pastora.

Definitely visit La Pastora - one city block with great sculptures, if you appreciate modern art. 

From there, make your way to Parroquia Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles for peaceful fountain and traditional church view. 

Park that surrounds fountain is pretty nice to relax at.

It is hot in Santiago during the day, almost 90F...

Santiago.

Oh, Providencia! It is Friday, and you were busy and bustling with businesses during the day, but you shine at night as well, with every restaurant packed full, music, food and happy people! Many nightclubs, bars and lounges around every corner on streets running perpendicular to Providencia ave.

Lost in Providencia.

Just across the street from Le Rêve is popular Nippon sushi. Delivery bikes fly in and out of it, and it gets packed as well. With happy hour drinks 2x1, it is pretty good choice to grab a drink and enjoy fresh sushi. Ordered sushi roll, crab balls & Kuntsmaan Cerveza Miel - perfectly sweet and smooth as honey.

Waitress is just wonderful, even without me knowing any Spanish, she manages to explain all the specials and also difference between price "efectivo" - cash, and "tarjeta" - credit. Obviously, later is much more expensive, so cash it is.

Very much sex.

In late evening, walk to the river to enjoy stroll in the park and view of another sculpture garden. There are some amazing sculptures on the bridges here as well, worth to see.

Day 9.

Cerro Santa Lucia.

Santa Lucia.

Since this is Saturday, it's flat rate ticket on metro, around 620 pesos.

Santa Lucia opens at 8:30 sharp, and as soon as I walk through, I stand still right by main entrance, struck by beautiful view.
Trees wash their leaves in a basin, two statues of boy and a girl reading books stand to the sides, and grand staircase embraces the space in wide hug.

Statues by entrance basin.

You can see the arch and main fountain on background. What a view!

Many staircases and viewpoints later, I make it to the castle top, to see 360 degrees view of Santiago. Mountains hiding in the fog (or smog) all around, perfect backdrop for city architecture.

View from the top.

After this, there is La Moneda palace to see a short walk away, you can take pictures with guards, or, if you lucky, catch a change of guards ceremony on the back of the palace.

Funicular rails.

Next stop: Cerro San Cristobal. Funicular ride, even round trip, is rather inexpensive, so of you pressed on time and cannot see whole park, this is a good option to see statue in a short period of time.

Walking to Pablo Neruda House.

After that, make your way to Pablo Neruda House and Museum.
One main attraction of traveling for me is ability to connect.
Be it connecting with people you never met before, but who will stay in your life forever.
Connecting to places you only seen of paper that affect you deeply when you finally see them.
Connecting to past or future as you walking in Now.
...In this case, connecting to something from childhood memory.
I leaned his poetry in school - but I never thought life will bring me here, to La Chascona in Santiago, Chile, of all places.
...I am talking about Pablo Neruda, of course...

This house, his and Matilde, is an inspiration in every sense.
His poetry at first, that brought me here for the visit. The museum, dedicated to his life - life that is so multifaceted that it spins around you like kaleidoscope glass, amazing at every angle.
His friends, standing next to him in pictures - here is Dali, and many others...
And finally, the architecture of this house - it is fascinating.
And there is a story behind it design... Beautiful & romantic....

La Chascona was build for Matilde, his love, at the base of San Cristobal in 1953.
House layout spread around the hill, with several levels, courtyards, stairs and secret passages. Low ceilings in some areas, beautiful wood detailing, seating, steps, tables and most amazing artwork on the walls by several well-known artists.
Catalan architect, German Rodriguez Arias, was hired to design the house, but plans changed so many times, he admitted this design is more of the Neruda's than his.
This is pure poetry in building form. Truly genius in every detail.

Back to Providencia, either Metro or on foot, grab lunch at Cafetto by the park at Hotel Orly. 

It is a bit more expensive than norm, but considering this is my last day in Santiago and my flight leaving very late, this will be my full meal of the day.

Street performers in Providencia.

...Last impressions about Santiago...

As any metropolitan city, Santiago is different in every angle and on every turn.

From slums I saw on the way to airport... to old, dusty, but filled with history city center, which reminded me of Roma a bit... to new and bright wonders of Providencia.

I fall in love with Providencia just as much as I fall in love with Barcelona - it has same pulse, same vibe, same heart. 

Santiago is not what I expected - it is a city to explore, city to love; city of arts, passion, great architecture and great food. City that growing fast, and has bright future. It is charming, opinionated, strong and very beautiful.

Adios, Santiago! See you next time.

Street art.

Tips of the day: 

1. Look for lunch specials at restaurants, and always ask if efectiva/cash option is available.

2. Try to get in shade and enjoy lunch/siesta from 12:30 to about 3:30-4pm. It is too darn hot to do anything! 

3. If you have time to kill in international departures of Santiago Airport, make your way downstairs to gate 12B for local artisanal crafts demonstrations and shop, it is pretty cool. There are some couches there as well to relax.

Over 35000 km, 6 flights, countless drives, hikes and wonders. 
This is one of my adventures. Cheers to many others!