Snow of Yosemite.

Yosemite.

Once upon a time, I found out that Mariposa Grove is closing for regrowth. 

The very next day, JetBlue had sale on flights to Cali.
And just like that, it was decided - I am going to Yosemite!


Day Before.
Leaving work for five days is a disaster. Why everybody decided they need me on that particular day?

My only smile of the day is looking at pictures of Frank Lloyd Wright house, sent by a friend.

Packing is frantic. I made a list - I never make lists, but times changing like a tide.

Whatever clothes do not fit in my 28L backpack is left behind. All cameras packed in my little Chinatown-grade Fendi.

I look at the weather once more. It's 85F in NYC, and... 40F and snow in Yosemite??? What????

Never mind, I will survive. Brrrrr!

Day 1.

I could not sleep. Excitement over the trip and over-analyzing my new life turns took over my brain.

Finally I gave up and left for JFK early. 

2 hours on runway, and finally - airborne!!! On my way, Sacramento, on my way!

Sacramento. This is how they do luggage???

...A bit of flight delay, but I made it to CA. Sunny and beautiful day was awaiting me. My silver rental Jeep was ready to go. Budget at this location, as far as car rentals go, gets all stars from me. Got the keys in 5 min flat. 

Driving to Yosemite is easy. I stopped for quickie lunch at local bar called Lagorio's on my way. Local, very local crowd. Bikers, truckers, business people. Odd mix. I like it.

Checked into camp, dropped my stuff at simple canvas cabin, and drove off to catch sunlight. It's beautiful here... There is something about arrival day and few hours you find to look around before darkness. I found a meadow not far from camp, between two mountains, and hiked to fallen trees - a spot to watch sunset. Cannot miss first day sunsets...

Sunset.

Day 2.

Cold woke me up.
I drive to the Mariposa Grove before sunrise, in a darkness, Jeep tires making first marks on wet ground. There was not a soul around the grove, and I took long loop road around to get deep into the woods, my backpack filled with water, snack bars, camera and rain gear...

Early morning fog.

One by one, trees got taller. Road got steeper, and morning fog rolled between the trees, like a breath of hidden monster... Bright orange bark of giant Sequoias was still warm and soft to touch under my fingertips, and I almost believed it's the trees that breathing out that morning fog.
Grove in early hours is unmistakeably magical. But as I walked higher and higher, huge snowflakes started falling softly from the skies - and remained on my eyelashes, melting on my cheeks...

Snow is falling - hide inside the tree!

I decided to play hide and seek with nature and found refuge INSIDE the trees - most of them are hollow caves, some are smaller, and some as big as cathedrals, hollow and tall. Standing inside the sequoia tree, peeking out at snowy fairytale, and sticking my tongue out to taste the magic.
Soon, I made it to the museum grounds. Building is closed for winter, but grounds with most beautiful snow-covered sequoias around it are breathtaking.

I am lost in fairytale. Magic swirled around me and took me with it, wandering around tall red trees, talking to strange creatures, breathing crisp air and tasting snowflakes.
I stood forever next to the biggest tree, my hand on the bark, looking out at this beautiful land. This is one of the moments that stay in your heart.

At the Grove Museum.

By the time I made it back to the parking lot, rangers closed grove and the roads for snowstorm.
Since I had a Jeep with snow tires, they let me drive without chains to Wawona and wait till storm is over. 

I needed to eat too, was about to faint. Soup and roast beef sandwich - recharge!

There was no word on road to reopen, so I had to make a decision to either wait or drive - I decided to leave park and drive around to route 140 which was open - I wanted to make it back before dusk.

Drive was brutal. 15 car accidents, deep snow on the road and 15 mph average speed. 

Stupidly enough, I had no coffee in the morning, and took headache pill at lunch - only one I had in my pocket was PM - which made me super woozy. Noticing I gonna kill myself on next rough turn, I pulled over and took a nap on a side of the road... Note to myself: it is most bizarre thing to sleep on side of the road in snowstorm. 

Once I got out to the valley it was warmer and sunny. Woohoo! Stopped at Judy's donut shop for coffee and apple fritter... Yummmmm!

Finally, back to camp...

One of the advantages of having cabin all by myself - extra blankets!!! Made myself bear cave under 4 of them. 

...

It still cold!

Day 3. 
It's raining. Everybody knows I hate (hate!!! HATE. HATE!) rain. Ugh. There is something incredibly sad about greyness of the skies, and sound of drops in the puddles, I feel dissolving into this depressing greyness. I only hope there will be a rainbow after the rain...

 Woke up, took shower, went to dining pavilion. Fire was roaring inside, but it was couple hours before they would open. 

And then, something incredible happen.

Manager was coming in, and let me into the dining pavilion to warm up by the fire all by myself. As I was suiting there by fireplace, thawing out, they brought me coffee, and refused to take any money for it. 

People are honestly good here. 

I chatted with cashier for a bit - he was fixing the fire, and even got to enjoy wifi since everybody else was still sleeping.

Got breakfast too once they were ready to open up - simple: eggs, bacon, hash. And more coffee. 

Ready to hike again, all refueled.

Tipping my hat to workers at the pavilion - and their big hearts.

Today, I am driving to the trailhead for the Happy Aisles - from there, you can either hike to Happy Aisles Trail; Misty Trail to Waterfalls and Half Dome or, as I decided in spur of the moment, Mirror Lake. 

Mirror Lake - true to it's name.

It's the easiest hike ever, and please go early - by 11am there are way to many people to enjoy the serenity and reflections.

It is beautifully calm. Reflections are unbelievable and just as much, unforgettable.

Reflections of the lake.

Reflections of the soul.

Reflections of the heart.
This is, by far, my favorite serenity spot in Yosemite.
I sit on one of the fallen trees to change to lighter gear, switch lens in the camera, take few selfies, and after that just to enjoy peace and quiet, listening to birds and breathing fresh mountain air.
Gentle morning sun came to play with me and I am warming up to the world.
I walk around for a bit, mesmerized by mirrors in the water, and I find a heart in the grass, made from fallen pine cones.
Just like person who made it, I realized at that moment - I will leave part of my heart in those mountains, by the reflective waters of Mirror Lake...

Afternoon @ Ahwahnee.

Glacier point and Tiaga Road still closed, so I decided to drive to Ahwahnee and hang out at the bar. I am hungry, of course, it's 4pm.

Man, this place rock. 

Hotel is mighty beautiful too.

No internet access unless you staying here tho. C'mon, man. I tried my best to charm bartenders to give me a code, but it coded by room numbers. Booooooooo!!!!! 

Yea, no cell reception for T-mobs either. 

Talked to nice couple from Hawaii at the bar. 

2 drinks, tacos and cheesecake later I get back to camp. 

Happiness cannot get any happier than this. :)

Highlight of the day: saw a white shiny low sitting Jaguar driving on unpaved potholey road. Major LOL!

Day 4. 

I guess weekend is when all school kids and dbags coming to Yosemite. Seriously, people, if you wanna yap about stupid shit and your stupid teenage problems all night, go to common area! Ijits.

Woke up at 4. So late!!! Run, run, run to drive and see sunrise @ Tunnel view.

Sunrise at Tunnel View.

"Someone told me long ago
There is a calm before the storm,
I know, it been coming for some time..."


I just want to know, have you ever seen clouds rolling leisurely in the valley before sun chases them away?


"Till forever, on it goes through the circle, fast and slow,
I know, it cannot stop. I wonder"


I just want to know, when was last time you drove through the darkness to see it melt into sunlight?...


It goes through the stages of greyness, air getting lighter, fog and clouds flow between the mountains, spreading their whispery tentacles between pine trees, trying to reach you. Sky gets brighter a bit, and if you turn around to look at the mountains behind you, you will see a kiss of red sunlight reflecting in the peaks. It's truly gets darker just before first ray of light hits the clouds, basking them in sea of pink and purple hues, contrasting with grey fog escaping hopelessly below.

This is best place to be to see rising sun. Grab a camera. It is nothing but amazing. With Half Dome and El Captain standing proud, Yosemite Valley opening in full view.
So screw sleep, get up long before sunrise, and drive here. See it. Feel it. Capture it on camera and in your heart.

Tunnel View on clear day.

Parking lot fills up quick! Saw some photographers perched on a cliff above the tunnel - great idea for next time! A bit of the hike, but no crowds.

Off to Wawona for breakfast. They gave me wifi password! Woohoo!

Grounds are beautiful...and so are the restrooms. 

I inquire about road conditions, and since both Tioga & Glassier closed, I set up on waterfalls hike.

Riddle on the road:
Sign to the left reads: Mist Trail, Vernal Fall, 1.2 miles. Sign to the right reads: Waterfalls, 3.8 miles.
(Sign below reads: just turn around and go back to sleep! (Heck no. I lie.)

So.... Which one would you choose??

I was feeling kinda lazy that particular morning. So I went left... of course, you know what happens next... it was not a quick hike. It's 1.2 miles to Vernal Fall, 1.5 more miles to Nevada Fall, and about same distance to loop back thru Clark Point.
Never less, it turned out to be quite spectacular one.


First part is easy walk in the forest, and after that there are steep, narrow steps leading to waterfalls. As you get closer, mist from waterfall makes everything wet  - steps, cameras and yourself, so be cautious (and wear good hiking boots to begin with). Waterproof jacket would help to hide the camera, and keep you dry. Make sure your backpack is covered too!
It called Mist Trail for a good reason.

Looking down at the trail from the top pf the Falls.

Amazing view of the falls, with rainbow playing on the basin below on the path itself, waiting for you right after stone overhang.
On top of waterfall there is a viewing platform, and resting area. You can walk along the river to take a break - it just awesome place to sit down, have a sip of water and eat a snack.


Now, with all the people going up the steps to waterfalls, going back same way is not an option - so you can either continue to Half Dome if you planned for it and got a permit, or continue to the top and around the loop road to come back to camp.
Yep, on the end it's same hike no matter if you choose left sign or right sign.
Let me just tell you, in addition to waterfalls, views of Liberty Cap & Mt. Broderick on this trail make it all worth it.

Word of advice:

So, all guides tell you use caution walking on old domes, since they round and slippery... 

What does yours truly does first thing when she gets to one of the domes? Walks to the top of it and sets camera on timer to take selfies, of course!! 
I was fine till I finished and put heavy backpack on and camera around my neck. 

...You guessed what happens next. 

Surely!

I slip & fall. With cameras, extra lenses and backpack with all my belongings. Stumble & roll. Teared leggings and bruised knee is very small payback for falling off the dome. Camera is safe. Phew!

Afternoon views:

Glacier road is reopened!! On my last day, it is finally reopened. Skies aligned for me!

I am off for a drive!!! 

Glacier Point, just thawed up.

Ok, this is one scary mother fucking road to drive up there - you surely will not catch me driving this one in the darkness, no freaking way in hell. Windy, hella narrow, slippery & pot-holey. Save me!!! Last segment before you hit the Glacier point has so many sharp turns, you half expect it turn into the knot.

But once you there, it's an easy walk to the viewpoints. It's a bit too touristy and over-civilized for me, with all the asphalt and structures. But view cannot be beat, so I can overlook the civilization if I stand on very edge...

You walk around, and whole Yosemite valley spreads up in front of you, wide open. Standing proud are the old mountains, white clouds catching up at their tops and hanging there like freshly washed linens on the line. Sun is bright, and it reflects in waterfalls and rivers. Tall and proud pines hanging to the edge... 

So magnificent.

This was a long, long day.

My quad muscles screaming at me. 

So to the bar I go... It's last night here, time to get drunk!!!

Day 5.

Planes & Sunrise.

There is something about waking up to crisp morning air in a tent and hearing birds singing at sunrise... Grabbing your toiletry case and towel, waking through camp in fleeing darkness to the showers... And stopping on your tracks seeing sun peeking over the mountains.

Camp Curry.

Camp Curry, #615, became my home away from home for a week. It had everything one would need to spend a night - and the rest of the day you are outside, seeking your next adventure anyway...
Two beds, linens, pillows, towels, four blankets (which helped me a lot when temperatures dropped into 20s, and my breath started forming white clouds in the air of unheated cabin).
Outside, there is a bear-proof locker for all your food and toiletries, you not supposed to keep anything in the cabin.

My last look at the camp, my last drive around the Yosemite. I soak in views - mountains and skies, before I head back home...
I am saying goodbye, till next time!