Chile Diaries, pt4 - End of the World.

At the End of the World.

Driving back to Puerto Natales to fill up, car beeps to empty 16km from the town, so barely making it to gas station. Phew, talk about close calls! 

Another 250 km back to Punta Arenas. Now it is really late and I am too exhausted to do anything else. Driving thru town traffic without GPS and with one way streets is not easy.

Punta Arenas.

Staying in Dreams, brand new hotel and casino right on the water at the end of the street (it is one way boulevard that starts from the hotel, so I consider it a beginning of OHiggins blvd. even that house numbers say otherwise)

Dreams Punta Arenas is a beautiful modern hotel, I can only compare it to Aria in Vegas when it first opened. It is huge, with restaurant, casino, spa and Skybar.

Rooms are spacious, free wifi, TV, huge bathtub, separate rain shower with massage jets, and all amenities you can wish for.

Dreams hotel.

Restaurant on first floor is gorgeous, high ceilings, interesting light effects on the windows that visible at night time. And food is on level - abalone was interesting to try, trio of ceviches is out of this world, and mushroom and octopus risotto was very, very good. Of course, Chilean wine is outstanding, cannot go wrong with any of selections.

Tip of the day: with Sky Bar situated on 11th floor, rooms on 10th floor can get weird noises sometimes. Also, rooms overlooking Punta Arenas, while have great views, can get quite hot from afternoon sun.

View from Dreams.

Day 7.

Isla Magdalena.
Super excited!

Penguin tours on barge Melinka to Isla Magdalena leave at 8am.
There is a black submarine by the entrance to the marina, cannot miss it. Office opens at 7:30 to buy tickets, line moves quick, and we all board Melinka 15 min to 8. Boat it very spacious, a lot of seats, restrooms, and small snack stand. Ride is 2 hours, plus 1 hour on the island - total of 5 hours.

That's love!

There are 75,000 penguin couples on this island alone.
Right now (November-December) is the season for penguins to lay eggs, and survival rate here is 1.7 chicks per couple, we were told.
Walking along the path to lighthouse, up and close with penguins is pretty cool.

Walking to Lighthouse.

You cannot/should not touch them, or feed them, and you have to stop if they crossing the path - they constantly go from holes to the sea to bring fish for their family.
Respect the penguin!
There are couple grey fuzzy chicks hatched already, but most of females hiding in those nest holes with eggs. They come out from time to time to spend time with their mate. Male penguins make warning noses, too, super funny - sounds like a warrior song.

Warrior Song.

Magellanic Penguins do differ from other kinds, and sooooo stinking cute, walking around in those black and white tuxedos!

Battle of penguins.

There are also lots of seagulls and other birds live here too, it's a sanctuary for all.
(Watch for the poop! ...and whole island stinks of fish, just a fair warning.)

"Ford... you're turning into a penguin. Stop it." - Hitchhiker's

Ford turning into penguin.

Punta Arenas.

Punta Arenas.

This is port town, and it is as charming as port town can be.

From cruise ships to small boats, and naval base, it all here. Long and beautiful Costanera, with modern sculptures and concrete chairs to enjoy the sunrise, hugs the city from Strait of Magellan side.

At the docks.

This is also artists town, you see many sculptures and murals all around you. 

Murals.

Punta Arena's main square, Plaza Muñoz Gamero, filled with beautiful trees - from very tall and Nordic looking evergreens to yellow-blooming ones with amazing scent.

Square is framed with mansions and gorgeous buildings that remind me of Paris or St. Petersburg.

Punta Arenas.

In the very beginning of OHiggins, just a block from the water, there are many restaurants that offer pre-fixe menu for lunch. It is a steal at price, and food is fresh and delicious. Do it!

In the evening I am still not hungry, so it is time to check out Sky Bar on 11th floor of Dreams.
There is a reason why rt.9 is officially named Ruta del Fin del Mundo - Road to the End of the World. Punta Arenas considered southernmost in the world, and as you get to the coast, you see the end of it all.
Now, to see it all clearly, you have to get to Sky Bar.
Huge, airy, spacious, very modern, with open layout, it offers THE best views of the city and the ocean, with nothing beyond the horizon...

Sky Bar.

What goes well with epic views? Epic drinks, obviously.
Ginger Pisco Sour is must try! Perfect. Ask server for recommendations, they are very helpful.
They serve some food as well: fries, sandwiches and platters.
Good selection of music, from American mainstream to Latin artists (unknown to most of us, and pretty great), with video clips playing on multiple TV screens.
Bartender is uber nice, and speaks English very well - big plus for crazy tourists.

Day 8.

Flying back to Santiago.

Checkout from Dreams was a breeze!

Modern Santiago.

Taking taxi from aeropuerto this time. Look for official yellow and black cabs and do not believe those bozos who sticking "official" sign in your face, but do not have official car.

Staying in Le Rêve Boutique Hotel in Providencia. What a treat! Small, cozy, with French character I love, private courtyard and spacious rooms, modern shower and delightful lavender toiletries. Breakfast and late night snack included in price.

Courtyard.

Free wifi everywhere, concierge service, and stuff is accommodating to every request. From holding your bags after checkout, to getting you a taxi or special snack, or just cup of tea in ungodly time.

Courtyard is so charming and relaxing with small tables, vines and fountain, and when it's too cold or too hot outside, there is a sitting room with couches set alongside bookcases filled with French books.

One of the best hotels I ever stayed in.

Window to courtyard.

Providencia itself also wonderful, new, modern, lots of great architecture and sculptures.
I am actually amazed how developed Chilean architecture and arts are. That's a huge compliment coming from New Yorker.

La Pastora.

Definitely visit La Pastora - one city block with great sculptures, if you appreciate modern art. 

From there, make your way to Parroquia Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles for peaceful fountain and traditional church view. 

Park that surrounds fountain is pretty nice to relax at.

It is hot in Santiago during the day, almost 90F...

Santiago.

Oh, Providencia! It is Friday, and you were busy and bustling with businesses during the day, but you shine at night as well, with every restaurant packed full, music, food and happy people! Many nightclubs, bars and lounges around every corner on streets running perpendicular to Providencia ave.

Lost in Providencia.

Just across the street from Le Rêve is popular Nippon sushi. Delivery bikes fly in and out of it, and it gets packed as well. With happy hour drinks 2x1, it is pretty good choice to grab a drink and enjoy fresh sushi. Ordered sushi roll, crab balls & Kuntsmaan Cerveza Miel - perfectly sweet and smooth as honey.

Waitress is just wonderful, even without me knowing any Spanish, she manages to explain all the specials and also difference between price "efectivo" - cash, and "tarjeta" - credit. Obviously, later is much more expensive, so cash it is.

Very much sex.

In late evening, walk to the river to enjoy stroll in the park and view of another sculpture garden. There are some amazing sculptures on the bridges here as well, worth to see.

Day 9.

Cerro Santa Lucia.

Santa Lucia.

Since this is Saturday, it's flat rate ticket on metro, around 620 pesos.

Santa Lucia opens at 8:30 sharp, and as soon as I walk through, I stand still right by main entrance, struck by beautiful view.
Trees wash their leaves in a basin, two statues of boy and a girl reading books stand to the sides, and grand staircase embraces the space in wide hug.

Statues by entrance basin.

You can see the arch and main fountain on background. What a view!

Many staircases and viewpoints later, I make it to the castle top, to see 360 degrees view of Santiago. Mountains hiding in the fog (or smog) all around, perfect backdrop for city architecture.

View from the top.

After this, there is La Moneda palace to see a short walk away, you can take pictures with guards, or, if you lucky, catch a change of guards ceremony on the back of the palace.

Funicular rails.

Next stop: Cerro San Cristobal. Funicular ride, even round trip, is rather inexpensive, so of you pressed on time and cannot see whole park, this is a good option to see statue in a short period of time.

Walking to Pablo Neruda House.

After that, make your way to Pablo Neruda House and Museum.
One main attraction of traveling for me is ability to connect.
Be it connecting with people you never met before, but who will stay in your life forever.
Connecting to places you only seen of paper that affect you deeply when you finally see them.
Connecting to past or future as you walking in Now.
...In this case, connecting to something from childhood memory.
I leaned his poetry in school - but I never thought life will bring me here, to La Chascona in Santiago, Chile, of all places.
...I am talking about Pablo Neruda, of course...

This house, his and Matilde, is an inspiration in every sense.
His poetry at first, that brought me here for the visit. The museum, dedicated to his life - life that is so multifaceted that it spins around you like kaleidoscope glass, amazing at every angle.
His friends, standing next to him in pictures - here is Dali, and many others...
And finally, the architecture of this house - it is fascinating.
And there is a story behind it design... Beautiful & romantic....

La Chascona was build for Matilde, his love, at the base of San Cristobal in 1953.
House layout spread around the hill, with several levels, courtyards, stairs and secret passages. Low ceilings in some areas, beautiful wood detailing, seating, steps, tables and most amazing artwork on the walls by several well-known artists.
Catalan architect, German Rodriguez Arias, was hired to design the house, but plans changed so many times, he admitted this design is more of the Neruda's than his.
This is pure poetry in building form. Truly genius in every detail.

Back to Providencia, either Metro or on foot, grab lunch at Cafetto by the park at Hotel Orly. 

It is a bit more expensive than norm, but considering this is my last day in Santiago and my flight leaving very late, this will be my full meal of the day.

Street performers in Providencia.

...Last impressions about Santiago...

As any metropolitan city, Santiago is different in every angle and on every turn.

From slums I saw on the way to airport... to old, dusty, but filled with history city center, which reminded me of Roma a bit... to new and bright wonders of Providencia.

I fall in love with Providencia just as much as I fall in love with Barcelona - it has same pulse, same vibe, same heart. 

Santiago is not what I expected - it is a city to explore, city to love; city of arts, passion, great architecture and great food. City that growing fast, and has bright future. It is charming, opinionated, strong and very beautiful.

Adios, Santiago! See you next time.

Street art.

Tips of the day: 

1. Look for lunch specials at restaurants, and always ask if efectiva/cash option is available.

2. Try to get in shade and enjoy lunch/siesta from 12:30 to about 3:30-4pm. It is too darn hot to do anything! 

3. If you have time to kill in international departures of Santiago Airport, make your way downstairs to gate 12B for local artisanal crafts demonstrations and shop, it is pretty cool. There are some couches there as well to relax.

Over 35000 km, 6 flights, countless drives, hikes and wonders. 
This is one of my adventures. Cheers to many others!