Chile Diaries, pt3 - Patagonia.

Torres del Paine.

Day 4.

Landed in Punta Arenas.

Avis sucks buckets. Promised car pickup at 6am, did not show up till 9. His partner said that I was not here at 6, which is complete bullcrap, since I did not check luggage (woohoo for local flights with no restrictions!) and were at the counter at 5:30.

3 hrs of my fucking life wasted waiting at fucking Avis counter. Fucking thank you, fucking Avis. I do appreciate apologies, but I am still pissed. Yo, some kind of discount would be nice! Ah, screw you.

Driving on rt.9, officially named Ruta del Fin del Mundo - Road to the End of the World.
Yep, I have towel and Hitchhikers guide packed!

Road to the End of the World.

Stopped at Puerto Natales for lunch and gas. It is freezing here!!! Hat, gloves, jacket is a must.

There is a charming cozy place called Mares Patagonico.
So comfy, with old-fashioned stoves for heat, wooden benches with pillows and homemade food, it is a treasure to relax after a drive and warm up in cold winter days. 

Mares Patagonico.

As day started with Avis mishap, it continues on disaster path... Rt290 that leading to hotel Rio Serrano is closed, everyone is turned around just 10 km from the hotel to do 3(!) hour detour all around the park. At this point, I am so tired and upset, I cannot even enjoy the scenery.

Instead of planned 12pm, arriving to hotel at 7pm.
This is tight timetable trip, every delay is pretty much a disaster.

To make matters worse, last gas station around was in Puerto Natales, and now truck is eating thru precious gas with this detour...

It's always darkest before sunrise, they say...

A "welcome" Pisco sour at reception and hot shower takes away the fatigue.
Warmth of fireplace heats up cold hands and hearts.
And you feel reborn. New day.

This is a nice hotel, built in style of skiing lodge, with wooden beams, high ceiling and modern decor. No TVs.

Common area.

Buffet dinner and breakfast. It's ok, I am not a big fan of the buffets in general, wish they would have a la carte option. Ceviches are delish, tho, so I load on those and desserts.

Bar is pretty good, fully stocked with wine, beer, hard liquor and decent cocktail choices, too.

Mountain view is breathtaking!

Sunrise.

Tip of the day for hotel Rio Serrano: No cell reception, wifi in common areas. 

But: if you put your phone on window seal, and leave it there for couple minutes, you can get 2 bars from movistar cell service. Do not move the phone!!!! Put it on speaker if you need to make a call, or you can use it for texts! 

Trying to catch cell signal at the window.

Niiiice.

Day 5.

Torres del Paine. 

Beautiful Mountains.

I do not know if I can even write about it. It's massive. Breathtaking. Mind-blowing.

Half of the times I am wondering if I left planet Earth and transported elsewhere, those landscapes are unreal. 

"Paine" is a mix of Spanish and Patagonian for "Blue", the color we see here in the glaciers, lakes and flowers.

Colors!

From Rio Serrano, there is beautiful mountain road winding along Rio Paine and Lake Pehoe. Water colors are purest blue and vibrant green. Absolutely amazing!

Lake Pekoe.

This morning, destination is Salto Grande area for morning hike to cliffs of Lago Nordernskjord and Mirador Cuernos. It is a windy day, and this is windy area in general - as of this morning, winds gusts possibly reaching 100 m/hr.

Salto Grande itself is not as *grande* as I expected, but the speed of the river and view is still impressive.

Next, to the viewpoint. It's only an hour hike one way, but wind is brutal. Couple times it is becoming impossible to walk, so you have to to sit down to wait for gusts to calm down, and at one point I can stand 45 degrees to the ground, supported by wind. Halfway thru there is a very narrow path around the cliff, and with winds are especially strong, you have stay low and almost make it across on all 4. 

Landscapes, with white-washed dead trees, tiny red and green flowers and views of the mountains... just surreal. Pictures do not show it, words cannot describe it. They go on, and on. It's not earth. I am pretty sure of it.

Dead Trees on the way to outlook.

Road goes up and up, and finally makes turn, revealing outlook. There is a wooden bench to sit and enjoy the views, but by now wind is insane, I would get blown off the bench if I sit down.
If you on your own and can wander around, you can find your way to small beach down below, to the right of viewpoint - and hide from winds. (Watch out for dead animals carcasses as you make your way through!)

On a trail to viewpoint.

Black sand. Wood washed by the river and blasted by the winds. Stones and lonely trees make this very picturesque. Wind is a bit more bearable here. You can see it coming - gusts blow water in fine mist, and as it approaches the shore, I turn around and brace myself till it blows over, taking pictures and videos in between.

Wind on the Water.

Peaks of Los Cuernos stand in all their majestic height across the Lago... Sunlight reflects in snowy peaks, and grey granite wall of the mountains makes you feel so small.
I don't want ever leave this beach. I climb across the stones on the left side and make myself comfortable on one of the rocks under the tree, overlooking small secret laguna just around the cliff.

At Lago Nordenskjord.

But I do have to make it back...
It starting to rain a bit, and wind picks up some more. Wild fox crosses my path and disappears into the hills. Couple birds standing on the ground, unable to fly in high winds...

Round lakes in all colors.

Met a lot of people/groups on the way back, but as I get to the port area, I see they turned around and never made it to the viewpoint, because of the wind. Passage is impossible by now. Glad I made it through.

There are restrooms/baños and cafeteria at the port. Hot pumpkin soup and meat panini (hot beef, lettuce, tomato, mayo)is just perfect after the hike in cold winds! 

As you drive further around the park, along Lago Nordernskjord and Lago Sarmiento, stop at Mirador del Nordernskjord.
It is one of the best views for Los Cuernos. Beware, it is also windy spot! Watch those car doors! You can walk down from observation point if you wish to avoid rest of the tourists.

Taking northern arm of rt.150 to Porteria y Guarderia Laguna Amagda and turning on road leading to Hotel La Torres.

On your way, meet guanacos and shoot more pictures! They are adorable.

Guanacos.

I tempted to stop on every turn of the road as I see view after view, mountains, snow, and lagos in all different colors: white, grey, blue, green and even red.
There are lots and lots of hiking trails here, as well as horseback riding. Shortest circuit  is 2hr (one way)  leading to Campamento Chileno. And longest one, the greatest, the famous W.

Make a detour to Cascada Paine to catch best view of the peaks that gave park its name. With waterfall and river on foreground, Torres del Paine - Sur, Central and Norte - clearly visible between two massive mountains.

W circuit is definitely calling my name. I did not do it on this visit. This is serious hiking, folks. From what I heard, it's 8-12 days.
I will come back for it, that is a promise.

Tores del Paine.

Tips of the day: 

1. Roads here are unpaved, and there is no gas other that emergency supply at CONAF rangers station at Lago Toro. Emergency gas is very expensive! If you want to see park on your own and renting a car, SUV with good size tank is best option. 

2. Hiking boots and water/wind proof gear a must! Wear 2-3 layers underneath if it's a cold and windy day.

3. Pick up a map at check point, it is best map of the park.

4. You can get snacks at Lago Pehoe camp site, or, just stop to eat at port cafeteria or any hotel.

View from Casada Paine road.

Day 6.

Lago Grey & Glacier Grey.

Glacier Grey, Lago Grey.

Glacier Grey is really the Bluest Blue. Blue as a sky, spilling out between two most majestic mountains you've seen. Ice sparkle in the sun, almost translucent in its peaks...
I never, ever seen colors like this in real life, and here they are.... I cannot get enough of those views.

Booking boat trip is easy, and you get directions and vouchers at Hotel Lago Grey.
You can catch a lonely iceberg view in Lago Grey right from terrace. It's a preview of things you will see later on...

Short drive and 15 min walk thru the park brings us to black sand beach and embarkation area. Life vests - on, small river boat loads 12 people at the time and brings us on board of catamaran Grey II.

I am wearing Psi bracelets, and for the first time in my life I am able to take boat ride without being sick, even it is a bumpy ride!

This is one tour you will not regret taking, trust me! I know there are bigger glaciers in Argentina, but if you only visiting Chile, you must!

3 hour ride goes around the Lago Grey (name fits, water is truly grey in color!) to the glaciers. Boat sails counterclockwise route, so when allowed to go on open area upstairs, stick to the right side for best views. 

It is really windy and cold, so once again, windbreakers, layers, hat and hood are a must (note this is November, I am not sure if may be it gets a bit warmer later in summer)

And finally, you see it...

Glacier Grey.

Glacier Grey's Bluest Blues...

Glacier Grey.

Going back, we served Pisco sour to warm up, and after a short stay in the cabin I run outside once again to take more pictures. Finally, I am only one on lower outside deck and ushered back inside the cabin by the crew as we arriving back to the beach.

I will never forget this.
Torres del Paine and Blue Glacier Grey is what I will be dreaming about for years to come...
My perfect dreamscape.
Thank you, Patagonia!

Glacier Grey.

Just a quick note about clouds. Yes, clouds! Watch out for most unusual ones you've seen! I am guessing due to high winds in the area, some of them get stretched out all over the blue sky like straight brush strokes, a perfect background for black and white mountain peaks.

Cloudscape.

Leaving the park, I keep looking back in rear view mirror for last glance of the mountain peaks. Good bye, Torres del Paine! So long, I will be back again!

...I miss it already...

Open road.