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| Moais of Isla de Pascua. |
Easter island. Land of vibrant colors, wild horses, black volcanic rock beaches, white sands, weird statues & most amazing starry skies...
Chill & laid back local vibe... Unpaved clay roads, Suzuki jeeps, pickup trucks, and nicest people you met.
Day 1.
6 hrs flight from Santiago - that's right! Long.
Island looks like
is a speck in the waters of Pacific, it impresses the shit outta me as
we fly around it preparing to land. What??? Land??? Where??? On this
tiny dot? Mutha of all gawds!
Airport is tiny and styled in Polynesian fashion, open layout, one level, very simple, very down to earth.
Our hostess waiting with list of names on the board - one of them is mine. Yes!
We all adorned in flower garlands and ushered into the van. There are 4 people going to same Cabannas besides me.
It is dark already as we arrive to Cabannas Rapa Nui Orito just minutes later...
It is dark already as we arrive to Cabannas Rapa Nui Orito just minutes later...
Complimentary
drinks are served, passports are taken care of, and I walk into
spacious room - I don't look around much. I am tired and fallen right to
sleep.
Tip
of the day: if you planning to visit parks next day, buy tickets here
at airport. Since airport open only twice a day for arrivals, and local
ticket office works 9-3 M-F, (while parks open till 5:30), AND they do not sell tickets at park entrances or hotels - this may be your only chance to get them.
Day 2.
Waking up at the Cabannas to sunny but windy day...
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| Reception area. |
Breakfast
brought to the room in cute tray, biscuits, butter, jam, ham, cheese,
cookies. Simple. Room has kitchenette, so you can make your own cup of
coffee.
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| Breakfast. |
...Ok,
because I am a nerd to my bones, I have to tell you that Wifi here is
not existent (even if advertised), and cell reception is very spotty.
Oh, well... I am surviving without it. Compensating with good food and
explorations.
I walk out to the field in front of the room after breakfast and rub my eyes in disbelief - my rental car waiting for me right here!
OK, now that's service! It's 4WD tiny Suzuki (they seem to be popular
here) - and boy, am I grateful for that with local roads being as rough
as a Windy rock park!
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| Horse skull on a cliff. |
On
the way around the island, there is a lot to see, from wild horses
running the planes and roads, to black volcanic rocks and blue
ocean...
On one of the turns, I spot something stark white on a cliff. I hit the breaks, and walk to see what is it.
White horse scull set on one of the black rocks. It's really bizarre and beautiful. Waves breaking at the rocks below and wind singing songs in the caverns... I am definitely sticking around to take pictures and sit alongside of it, looking at the horizon.
Weird observation: Horses stop you on the road and try to play with a car - licking the bumper clean. wtf?
On one of the turns, I spot something stark white on a cliff. I hit the breaks, and walk to see what is it.
White horse scull set on one of the black rocks. It's really bizarre and beautiful. Waves breaking at the rocks below and wind singing songs in the caverns... I am definitely sticking around to take pictures and sit alongside of it, looking at the horizon.
Weird observation: Horses stop you on the road and try to play with a car - licking the bumper clean. wtf?
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| Wild Horses. |
Making across the island in one piece to Rano Raraku with crazy unpaved roads - this is a cool adventure on it's own... (Do you believe I made it? I certainly don't.)
Rano Raraku is most iconic site on Easter Island. This is there most of unfinished Moai live, and the rest that you see around the Isla de Pascua came from this quarry as well.
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| Moais at Rano Raraku. |
From entrance hut, turn left at the road fork to see the mysterious figures.
The site is huge, and several path are set around the hill so you can make your way around all Moais. They are mind-boggling, really. The size, the features, and the number of them - each one is different.
Really impressive sight.
There is a cave with opening to the old quarry, you can only look at it from behind the ropes. As you turn around the hill, you will see last, and very unusual figure of Tutu, or sitting full-figure Moai.
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| Tutu - sitting Moai. |
The views from this side are beautiful, and if you stop for a minute, you can see and hear wild horses running around and singing songs of freedom. There are lots of them on the island.
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| Moais at Rano Raraku. |
It's a bit steep, and there are lots of horses, once again. Sidestepping between the horses and their poo, higher and higher road goes, till the view of the crater, now a peaceful lake, opens up. Locals making BBQ on the shore, walls of the crater protecting from winds, and horses walking on the slopes. How peaceful!
You can walk on a ridge to the right to get full view of the crater.
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| Horse running in a crater. |
Hit Playa Anakena for lunch.
Red clay roads around this area are pretty cool. Enjoy your 4WD. And a lot of dust!
Red clay roads around this area are pretty cool. Enjoy your 4WD. And a lot of dust!
There are several food shacks set up here, very authentic, with BBQ pits everywhere.
Open air and driving around sure makes you hungry, right? And what better way to enjoy BBQ but on the beach with cool breeze and Moai watching over you?
Yes, you got it. Do it.
Open air and driving around sure makes you hungry, right? And what better way to enjoy BBQ but on the beach with cool breeze and Moai watching over you?
Yes, you got it. Do it.
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| View from the table at Tea Ana. |
Tea Ana was one I settled on - but any of the food shacks here are pretty good.
Place is so rustic, so simple, I love it.
Tree trunks for tables bases, with bandanas for table clothes.
Service is slow, but food is soooooo good.
Spring breeze waffling in thru the nets, palm trees swaying, ocean waves hitting the shore just stroll away... Ahhhh, that's a life!!
Place is so rustic, so simple, I love it.
Tree trunks for tables bases, with bandanas for table clothes.
Service is slow, but food is soooooo good.
Spring breeze waffling in thru the nets, palm trees swaying, ocean waves hitting the shore just stroll away... Ahhhh, that's a life!!
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| Frozen drinks on a beach are mandatory. |
After lunch, walk to the beach... Time for siesta. Aka Empanada coma.
If you have time for one beach day on Easter Island, Playa Anakena would be it.
Blue waters of Pacific... Sand is fine and white, and very hot, even the day is chilly.
I had full intentions to go for the swim, but water is pretty cold in November - I chickened out. Just to sit and relax for a little bit on this heavenly beach is good enough... If you get sick of the sun (never), there are benches under the trees.
Seriously, give me my Nook, and I will not leave it for months...
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| Blue waters of Playa Anakena. |
Blue waters of Pacific... Sand is fine and white, and very hot, even the day is chilly.
I had full intentions to go for the swim, but water is pretty cold in November - I chickened out. Just to sit and relax for a little bit on this heavenly beach is good enough... If you get sick of the sun (never), there are benches under the trees.
Seriously, give me my Nook, and I will not leave it for months...
And of course, more Moais standing here. Watching you!
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| Group of Moais watching over the beach. |
It is windy day, and a lot of surfers hitting the waves, mostly on Hanga Roa beach. Very cool.
In afternoon, plan is to drive to Orongo.
In afternoon, plan is to drive to Orongo.
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| Rano Kau. |
Stop at Rano Kau viewpoint on the way - it is free, and offers almost same views of the crater as from the park.
Orongo is very interesting, albeit short walk - with those low buildings, and tiny entrances looking like small caves. Remember Eddy Murphy? "Only a man whose heart is pure can wield the knife, and only a man whose ass is narrow can get down these steps. And if mine's is such an ass, then I shall have it." Yes, just like that.
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| Cliffs of Orongo. |
Orongo is very interesting, albeit short walk - with those low buildings, and tiny entrances looking like small caves. Remember Eddy Murphy? "Only a man whose heart is pure can wield the knife, and only a man whose ass is narrow can get down these steps. And if mine's is such an ass, then I shall have it." Yes, just like that.
On the end of the trail, there is breathtaking view of crater and the opening to blue sea.
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| Rano Kau. |
In
the evening, hunt for perfect sunset spot. There are many benches in
Hanga Roa itself, but if you drive past cemetery, run over sidewalk to
the left and drive unpaved road, you can park right there on the hill
and walk to Ahu Takai historical site with several Moai and perfect shot
of the sunset...
Sun goes down around 9pm (end of November), and it is picture perfect, with clouds on fire, and silhouettes of Moais standing guard on the coast...
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| Sunset at Anu Takai. |
I wanted to try La taverne du pecheur for dinner, been reading all rave reviews on blogs...Meh. Not impressed. French my ass.
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| He is french, I think. ::eye roll:: |
Last deed of the day before I fall asleep: night is clear, and perfect for stargazing at southern hemisphere constellations.
There are familiar ones - here is Orion's belt, dusty haze of the Milky Way - and there are new ones I never seen before, southern stars...
Oh. My. Freaking. Gawd.
How amazing.
Sky is so clear, and so deep; stars shining like little jewels dropped into sea of black. It is do dark it's almost looks plush. I want to touch it. I want to soak it in.
Never, ever, anywhere, I have experienced anything like this sky.
There are familiar ones - here is Orion's belt, dusty haze of the Milky Way - and there are new ones I never seen before, southern stars...
Oh. My. Freaking. Gawd.
How amazing.
Sky is so clear, and so deep; stars shining like little jewels dropped into sea of black. It is do dark it's almost looks plush. I want to touch it. I want to soak it in.
Never, ever, anywhere, I have experienced anything like this sky.
Unrelated
note of the day: conspiracy theory. A lot Easter island names are sooo
close to Russian words with same meaning. Pasqua=Pasha, Raku-Raku=Raki,
Moai=moi? Woah.
Tip of the day: Watch out for horses, dogs and chickens crossing the road.
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| Tree at the crater. |
Day 3.
Waking up at 5, and driving across the island to Ahu Tongariki in the dark is absolutely scary, amazingly so. There are no lights around the roads, and horses
sleep on random turns, so you have to drive very carefully and very slowly.
It's pitch black around. I *think* I am in right place... there are couple cars already here, so there is hope.
It still dark, and thanks Apple gods for new flashlight feature on the phone!
For a bit, it starts to rain, but I am ready with waterproof gear.
By the time sun rises, rain stops, and most of heavy clouds move away. My lady luck helped me once again. Horizon is clear, few clouds hanging around and sun slowly makes it appearance... First, one bright ray bursts through, and soon enough the disk of gold colors clouds red and blue, peeking at me between figures of Moai.
I do not have words to describe it, it is beautiful and strange.
It's pitch black around. I *think* I am in right place... there are couple cars already here, so there is hope.
It still dark, and thanks Apple gods for new flashlight feature on the phone!
For a bit, it starts to rain, but I am ready with waterproof gear.
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| Sunrise at Ahu Tongariki. |
By the time sun rises, rain stops, and most of heavy clouds move away. My lady luck helped me once again. Horizon is clear, few clouds hanging around and sun slowly makes it appearance... First, one bright ray bursts through, and soon enough the disk of gold colors clouds red and blue, peeking at me between figures of Moai.
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| Sunrise at Ahu Tongariki. |
I do not have words to describe it, it is beautiful and strange.
...And
on that note, it's time to say goodbye to Easter Island, hug the
hostess, and head to airport to fly back to Santiago and Punta Arenas...
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| Ahu Tongariki. |
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